The hardest part of growing out gray hair usually hits around month four, when there’s two inches of silver at the part and a hard line where the old color starts. How much that line shows comes down to the cut and the color, not just patience. Here’s what I reach for to get through it.
1. The Pixie Big Chop
The pixie big chop is the fastest way to finish gray hair growing out, because most of the old color leaves in one visit. I cut the sides with scissor over comb on dry hair, point cut the top to three inches, then gloss the gray with a clear violet demi. It suits fine to medium density and oval or heart faces. Rough-dry with a texture spray. Trim every five weeks until the color is gone.
2. Brunette to Gray Hair Transition With Ash Highlights
A brunette to gray hair transition goes faster with ash highlights through the old color. I cut the perimeter at the chin on dry hair with soft layers, then foil level nine ash highlights through the brown lengths and gloss the gray root with a clear violet so the band disappears. It suits fine to medium density and most skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush. Refresh every ten weeks.
3. Root Smudge to Soften the Line
A root smudge softens the line between gray regrowth and old color. I cut the perimeter at the collarbone on dry hair with long layers, then melt a level seven demi an inch into the colored lengths so the gray fades in rather than stops. It suits medium density and most skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush and use a violet shampoo weekly. Refresh the smudge every ten weeks.
4. Chin Bob at the Halfway Point
A chin bob is where I take gray hair growing out once the regrowth reaches the ear. I cut the perimeter at the chin on dry hair with no layers so most of the old color drops, then gloss the gray with a clear violet demi. It suits fine to medium density and oval or long faces. Blow-dry flat with a paddle brush. Trim every six weeks until the ends are clean.
5. Silver Babylights Through Old Color
Silver babylights through old color make the gray look like it was always there. I cut the perimeter past the shoulder on dry hair with long layers, then foil level ten babylights through the whole head and tone silver so the regrowth reads as more of the same. It suits fine to medium density and cool skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush. Refresh every twelve weeks.
6. Cold Turkey With a Clear Gloss
Cold turkey is letting the gray grow with nothing but a gloss. I cut the perimeter at the shoulder on dry hair with long layers, then apply a clear violet demi at the bowl for ten minutes to shine the gray and cool the old color. It suits every density and every skin tone. Blow-dry with a round brush and use a violet shampoo weekly. Gloss every six weeks and trim every eight.
7. Brunette to Gray Hair Transition With Lowlights
A brunette to gray hair transition for the client who wants to stay dark uses lowlights in the gray. I cut the perimeter at the shoulder on dry hair with long layers, then weave level five lowlights through the regrowth so it reads as salt and pepper rather than a band. It suits medium to thick density and most skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush. Refresh every twelve weeks.
8. Gray Hair Growing Out on a Pixie Bob
Gray hair growing out on a pixie bob loses the old color in two cuts. I cut the nape with graduation on dry hair, let the front fall to the cheekbone, point cut the top, then gloss the gray with a clear violet demi. It suits fine to medium density and oval or round faces. Blow-dry with a flat brush pushing the front forward. Trim every six weeks.
9. Balayage Over the Band
Balayage painted over the band hides the hard line without touching the root. I cut the perimeter past the shoulder on dry hair with long layers, then hand paint level nine through the mid-lengths and ends and tone beige, leaving the gray root natural. It suits medium density and neutral skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush and finish with serum. Refresh every sixteen weeks.
10. Shag to Hide the Regrowth
A shag hides the regrowth line in its layers. I cut the perimeter at the jaw on dry hair, point cut short crown layers, razor the sides, then gloss the gray with a clear violet demi. It suits fine to medium density and oval or round faces. Rough-dry with a texture spray and push the crown up so the gray and the old color mix. Trim every six weeks.
11. Icy Toner on the Last Inches
An icy toner on the last inches of old blonde makes them match the gray. I cut the perimeter at the collarbone on dry hair with long layers, then apply a blue violet toner at the bowl to the colored ends only. It suits fine to medium density and cool skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush and use a violet shampoo twice a week. Tone every six weeks and trim every eight.
12. Stacked Bob Grow Out
A stacked bob takes the old color off the nape first, where the gray is heaviest. I cut the nape short with graduation on dry hair, stack the layers to the crown, leave the front at the chin, then gloss the gray. It suits fine to medium density and round or square faces. Blow-dry the back with a round brush rolling under. Trim every six weeks.
13. Money Piece to Match the Temples
A money piece lightened to match the gray temples makes the regrowth look placed. I cut the perimeter at the collarbone on dry hair with long layers, then lighten the two front sections from root to end to a level ten and tone silver. It suits medium density and most face shapes. Blow-dry the front out with a round brush. Refresh the money piece every ten weeks.
14. Brunette to Gray Hair Transition on Curls
A brunette to gray hair transition on curls is cut dry so the two tones mix in every spiral. I cut the perimeter at the collarbone on dry curls, point cut the crown curls short, then gloss with a clear violet demi. It suits medium density and type 3A to 3B curls. Apply a curl cream to wet hair, scrunch, and diffuse on low. Trim every eight weeks until the color is gone.
15. Pewter Gloss Over Faded Brown
A pewter gloss over faded brown pulls the old color toward the gray. I cut the perimeter at the chin on dry hair with two layers, then apply a level seven pewter demi at the bowl for fifteen minutes over the whole head. It suits fine to medium density and cool skin tones. Blow-dry with a paddle brush and use a violet shampoo weekly. Refresh the pewter every five weeks.
16. Undercut Pixie With Gray Sides
An undercut pixie takes the color off the sides in one clipper pass. I clipper the nape and sides on dry hair, point cut the top to three inches, then gloss the top so the gray and the old color blend. It suits fine to medium density and oval or square faces. Rub a light paste between your palms and push the top back. Retouch every five weeks.
17. Gray Hair Growing Out With a Fringe
A fringe shows the new gray at the front first. I cut the perimeter at the chin on dry hair with no layers, cut the fringe at the brow, then gloss the gray with a clear violet demi. It suits fine to medium density and oval or heart faces. Blow-dry the fringe with a small brush. Trim the fringe every four weeks so the gray reaches the ends faster.
18. Champagne Highlights to Bridge the Tones
Champagne highlights bridge gray regrowth and old blonde because the beige gold reflect sits between them. I cut the perimeter at the collarbone on dry hair with long layers, then foil fine level nine champagne highlights through the top and tone at the bowl. It suits fine to medium density and neutral skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush. Refresh every twelve weeks.
19. French Bob at Month Eight
A French bob at month eight drops the last of the old color at the chin. I cut the perimeter at the chin on dry hair with no layers, cut the fringe at the brow, then gloss the gray with a clear violet demi. It suits fine to medium density and oval or heart faces. Air-dry with a light cream and tuck one side. Trim every six weeks.
20. Reverse Balayage for Darker Ends
Reverse balayage darkens faded ends so they meet the gray at the root without a band. I cut the perimeter past the shoulder on dry hair with long layers, then paint a level six demi through the mid-lengths and ends and gloss the root with a clear violet. It suits medium density and most skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush. Refresh every twelve weeks.
21. Salt and Pepper Pixie Grow Out
A salt and pepper pixie keeps the dark and the gray in the same cut. I cut the sides with scissor over comb on dry hair, point cut the top to three inches, then weave level four lowlights through the darker sections. It suits medium to thick density and most face shapes. Rough-dry with a texture spray. Refresh the lowlights every twelve weeks and trim every five.
22. Gray Blend With Highlights and Lowlights
A gray blend uses highlights and lowlights together so the regrowth never reads as a stripe. I cut the perimeter at the collarbone on dry hair with long layers, then weave fine level nine highlights and level seven lowlights through the top. It suits fine to medium density and most skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush. Refresh every twelve weeks and gloss between visits.
23. Brunette to Gray Hair Transition With a Root Shadow
A brunette to gray hair transition with a root shadow keeps the dark at the root and lightens the rest. I cut the perimeter past the shoulder on dry hair with long layers, then foil level nine highlights from an inch off the scalp and tone ash so the gray root reads deliberate. It suits medium density and most skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush. Refresh every fourteen weeks.
24. Bixie at the Awkward Stage
A bixie is the cut for the awkward stage, when the regrowth is two inches and the ends are still colored. I cut the nape short with graduation on dry hair, let the front fall to the cheekbone, point cut choppy layers through the top, then gloss the gray. It suits fine to medium density and oval or round faces. Blow-dry with a flat brush. Trim every six weeks.
25. Smoky Lavender Over the Whole Head
A smoky lavender demi over the whole head pulls gray and old blonde into one tone. I cut the perimeter at the jaw on dry hair with soft layers, then apply the lavender demi at the bowl for fifteen minutes. It suits fine to medium density and cool skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush and use a violet shampoo weekly. Refresh every five weeks because the lavender fades.
26. Long Layers to Keep the Length
Long layers keep the length while the gray grows through. I cut the perimeter past the shoulder on dry hair, point cut long layers from the jaw so the colored ends thin out, then gloss the gray. It suits medium density and oval or long faces. Blow-dry with a large round brush. Trim an inch every eight weeks so the old color leaves faster than the hair grows.
27. Gray Hair Growing Out With Glasses
Gray hair growing out with glasses needs the brightness above the frames. I cut the perimeter at the chin on dry hair with soft layers, keep the sides clear of the frames, then foil level ten highlights through the crown and tone silver. It suits fine to medium density and most face shapes. Blow-dry upside down with a root lifting mousse. Refresh every twelve weeks.
28. Asymmetrical Bob Grow Out
An asymmetrical bob shows the gray on the long side and drops the color on the short. I cut the short side at the jaw and the long side at the chin on dry hair with point cut ends, then gloss the gray with a clear violet demi. It suits medium density and round or square faces. Blow-dry smooth with a flat brush and tuck the short side. Trim every six weeks.
29. Toner Only Grow Out for Blondes
Blondes growing out gray need a toner, not a lightener. I cut the perimeter at the collarbone on dry hair with long layers, then apply a beige violet toner at the bowl for ten minutes over the whole head so the blonde and the gray read as one. It suits fine to medium density and most skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush. Tone every six weeks and trim every eight.
30. Textured Crop at the Finish Line
A textured crop is the finish line, when the last of the color is cut off the top. I cut the sides with scissor over comb on dry hair, point cut the top to two and a half inches, then gloss the gray with a clear violet demi. It suits fine to medium density and most face shapes. Rough-dry with a texture spray and piece the top with your fingers. Trim every five weeks.
31. Gray Ombre Flipped
Flipped gray ombre leaves the gray at the root and runs the old color darker at the ends on purpose. I cut the perimeter past the shoulder on dry hair with long layers, then apply a level five demi to the bottom half and gloss the root. It suits medium to thick density and most skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush. Refresh the ends every twelve weeks.
32. Feathered Pixie With Blended Regrowth
Feathered layers blow the gray regrowth back into the old color. I cut the sides with scissor over comb on dry hair, point cut the top to three and a half inches, feather the front back, then gloss with a clear violet demi. It suits fine to medium density and most face shapes. Blow-dry the top back with a round brush and set with hairspray. Trim every six weeks.
33. Low Bun to Hide the Band
A low bun hides the band while the gray grows. I cut the perimeter past the shoulder on dry hair with long layers, gloss the gray, then twist the length into a low bun at the nape so the roots sit smooth on top. It suits medium density and most face shapes. Set with hairspray and use a violet shampoo weekly. Trim every ten weeks.
34. Gray Hair Growing Out With Curtain Bangs
Curtain bangs put the gray at the front where it reads deliberate. I cut the bangs on dry hair from the nose to the cheekbone, splitting at the center, point cut long layers, then gloss the gray. It suits medium density and square or round faces. Blow-dry the bangs out with a round brush. Trim the bangs every five weeks.
35. Silver Highlights on the Top Only
Silver highlights on the top only brighten where the gray is heaviest and leave the rest. I cut the perimeter at the shoulder on dry hair with long layers, then foil level ten highlights through the top and tone silver, leaving the colored underneath as the lowlight. It suits medium density and cool skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush. Refresh every twelve weeks.
36. Half Up Twist to Cover the Crown
A half up twist covers the crown band with the lengths. I cut the perimeter past the shoulder on dry hair with long layers, then gloss the gray with a clear violet demi. It suits medium density and most face shapes. Blow-dry with a round brush, twist the two front sections back over the crown, and pin. Trim every ten weeks and gloss every eight.
37. Rose Gold Gloss Over Old Blonde
A rose gold gloss over old blonde warms it so the gray reads as a cool highlight. I cut the perimeter at the collarbone on dry hair with long layers, then apply a sheer pink gold demi at the bowl for ten minutes. It suits fine to medium density and cool or neutral skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush. Refresh every four weeks because it fades fast.
38. Razored Ends to Drop Weight
Razored ends thin the colored lengths so the gray reads as the main color. I cut the perimeter at the collarbone on dry hair, razor the last two inches, then gloss the gray with a clear violet demi. It suits medium to thick density and oval or round faces. Rough-dry with a light cream and leave the ends as they fall. Trim every eight weeks.
39. Walnut Lowlights in the Regrowth
Walnut lowlights in the regrowth keep a brunette from going silver all at once. I cut the perimeter at the collarbone on dry hair with long layers, then weave level six walnut lowlights through the gray root and gloss the lengths. It suits medium density and neutral skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush and finish with serum. Refresh the lowlights every twelve weeks.
40. Blunt Lob at Month Twelve
A blunt lob at month twelve takes the last of the color off the ends. I cut the perimeter at the collarbone on dry hair with no layers and point cut the last half inch, then gloss the gray. It suits fine density and oval or long faces. Blow-dry with a round brush and a root lifting mousse. Trim every eight weeks and gloss every eight.
41. Clear Gloss on Finished Gray
A clear gloss on finished gray is the last appointment of the grow out. I cut the perimeter at the shoulder on dry hair with long layers, then apply a clear demi at the bowl for fifteen minutes to close the cuticle. It suits every density and every skin tone. Blow-dry with a round brush and use a violet shampoo weekly. Gloss every six weeks and trim every ten.
42. Low Maintenance Grow Out
The low maintenance grow out is a gray blend from half an inch off the scalp so it stretches to four months. I cut the perimeter at the collarbone on dry hair with long layers, then weave level nine highlights and level seven lowlights through the top and gloss the whole head neutral. It suits fine to medium density and most skin tones. Blow-dry with a round brush. Refresh every sixteen weeks.
The hardest part of growing out gray hair usually hits around month four, when there is two inches of silver at the part and the old color sits as a band underneath, so the cut has to redistribute the weight. For gray hair growing out I lift the crown and add long layers so the transition reads as shape, not a stripe. A root shadow at the salon is what softens the line down. oval face haircuts stay the shape I reach for most, and the same length rules apply whether the hair is gray, blonde, short, or long.
